I asked her if she'd like to join us for the Subic race this year and she told me that she'd just had a traumatic experience in the Philippines in mid January and didn't feel she could come to open water for a while and also she was also going to Vietnam over the Easter break. A press report here.
I'm now posting this, with her permission:
First, the immediate response (back on 30th Jan):
I'm afraid that I am going to Vietnam over the Easter break.
Unfortunately I was involved in a pretty horrific incident in Boracay last week where our boat capsized in big sea. 12 people were rescued or were washed ashore but the captain perished - four of us ended up on a rock Robinson Crusoe style waiting for rescue which luckily came in the form of a parasail boat 4 hours later, the other 8 clung onto various bits of wood and were washed ashore. Its all over the media if you google boracay boat capsize. Although I refuse to let this experience put me off sailing I think I should stay a bit closer to land for the next few months, so if you're doing anything that is closer to home please let me know.
Cheers,
Pip
The full story, click below to see it.
Boracay Account.
Upon setting off from White beach, no one had any clue about what was to happen later that day. The breeze was mild and the water flat, and although there were a few clouds in the sky they didn’t look ominous or threatening. It wasn’t until we rounded the north western tip, out of the lee of the island that the swell and the wind started to increase. The captain reassured us that in 30 minutes we would once again be in flat water. The journey along the northernmost edge of Boracay was rough, but we had put our trust in the captain and at this point we were still heading directly into the swell. When we turned the next corner around the north-eastern tip of the island, the swell direction was now side on and the boat was being pitched around like a bottle. After one particularly big wave we again asked the captain whether this was safe and were about to have a consensus about turning back when another wave capsized the boat about a mile or so from shore off Illi-Illigan beach.
The calm and courage shown by everyone at this point was remarkable. A headcount was immediately taken and when it was clear that everyone was present and no one trapped underneath, we all climbed onto the upturned hull. At first it looked like the boat was heading towards the beach in the direction of the waves and wind. After around 45 minutes it was apparent that it was actually heading towards the southern of two small islands. The waves were ferocious at this point and had the boat hit the rocks, it would have certainly been smashed to pieces. The decision was made to abandon the boat, heeding the advice of the tour guide. The 10 of us entered the water but nearly immediately got split up. It was at this point where everyone has their own story to tell but I will carry on with mine. Will had noticed a strong rip tide carrying us northwards round Boracay so we attempted to swim to the left of the channel between the two islands towards Ilig-Iligan beach. The rip was so strong that it took us very close to the northern most island. At this point from the corner of my eye I saw Larry climbing the rock, but I got swept around it before I had time to register any more. Then I spied a ledge, situated a few feet from the water and in a moment of calm swam for it furiously. Climbing the ledge I realised that Akiko and Will were both very close behind and they also managed to climb up. It was very sheltered out of the wind and the waves although the rocks were incredibly sharp, like walking on broken glass. Luckily we had two buoyancy aids for respite against the rock. Less than 10 minutes later Larry floated past and we managed to get him safely onto the island. Larry was incredibly shaken as minutes before, Eunah had been ripped from his grasp by a nasty wave. It was then that the thought dawned on the four of us that perhaps we were the only survivors. I tried to climb the island to see if I could see anyone, but the rocks were as jagged so it was a slow and painful process. Once on top of the island I realised that this was a futile exercise as firstly I couldn’t see much because of the undergrowth, and secondly I was so terrified about seeing a dead body that I couldn’t bring myself to look properly. It was a slow process to get down but I made it, incredibly without cutting myself.
Meanwhile Akiko thankfully had on a pink shirt and starting trying to grab the attention of the few lone people on the beach. After a long while and a tense period of uncertainty, we managed to attract attention. A man (called James) swam out as far as he could but the waves were too big for him to continue. He was able to gather from us that there were thirteen people missing, and informed us that help would arrive in 30 minutes. Around half an hour later two members of the coastguard attempted a rescue, however they were woefully ill prepared, with only one of them wearing fins, and one life ring. They too could not get to the island due to the waves and current and ended up having to be rescued as well. At this point we knew that we were safe on our rock and our concern grew for the others. I didn’t see how anyone could have survived the cliffs and the rocks and was certain that we were the only survivors. Suddenly in the distance a familiar figure appeared on Ilig Iligan beach, it was Nick, and his familiar walk was one of the most welcome sights of my life. We counted the survivors – 5.
We made a pact, when the lifeguards came, not to get back in the sea, and that we would only be rescued by boat or helicopter (what a joke). So when the parasail boat appeared being buffeted by the waves which were at this point a good 8 ft, we all initially balked at the idea of rescue. It sounds so stupid now knowing the timing of everything but we tried desperately to persuade them to leave us and go and look for the others. When it was clear that there was no way they were going to do that, Will took the bravest step and jumped off the ledge into the waiting life ring where he was subsequently pulled aboard. The instant we were split up the instinct to stay together was so strong. Akiko showed massive courage and leapt into the life ring and then having extracted a promise from Larry, I went too.
The boat was quite alarming, as the waves were big and it was being thrown around like a bottle. Will was on wave lookout and was shouting to the boat driver when a big set came through, but the boat driver handled the boat with amazing skill.
Nick’s face when we arrived on the beach will stay with me for the rest of my life. Whether it was relief, or terror, or devastation I will never know but the conflicting emotions that the five of us were safe, but the others were probably dead were overwhelming. I think I just stood there in shock until the nice people from the Christian mission led us up to their house. The news began to filter through about the others, Fleur and Kiren were in hospital, Al was safe. That made 8, we still didn’t know about Eunah and Ian. Then there was a report that Eunah was on Pukka beach and was alive, which I didn’t believe because, after what Larry had relayed I was certain she was dead. The next half hour was incredibly frustrating, driving from beach to beach, not knowing about Ian, not finding Eunah and not knowing how the others were. It wasn’t until we arrived in hospital and the 10 of us were together in one room that we fully realised that we were all alive.
Of the other 5 in our group – three had found a bamboo pole and drifted for close on a mile around the north of the island to Pukka beach. They were swimming for a good 2 hours. Eunah and Ian found themselves back at the boat so scrambled back aboard. However when the tide changed (to wind against tide) the waves increased and were breaking over the hull. It required a superhuman effort to stay on the boat but they managed it and eventually got rescued. One crewman stayed with the boat, one swam to shore and the captain swam to the cliffs. Unfortunately his body was found 2 days later.
Aftermath
Inaccurate coverage of our story began to appear in local and Australian online press. We contacted the British Consulate to confirm the identities and medical condition of the personnel involved. The Consulate advised us that a representative would pay us a visit the following day.
Upon meeting with the coastguards, police, representatives from BIHA (Boracay Island Hopping Association), the boat owner and the Marina (government maritime agency rep) and the Mayor, several things became clear.
· The coastguard in Boracay don’t have a boat and very little funding
· A bad weather warning was issued by the CG as early as 5 am but was disregarded.
· A boat trip should only cost Php 2,200, not the Php 10,000 we paid (which is going rate) which highlights systematic illegality and corruption of the boat trip industry. This means that 7,800 had ‘gone missing’ – probably split between the boat captain and the table boy who collects the money.
· The touts on the beach are illegal but the police turn a blind eye.
· There was no method of communication on the boat – no flares, no radios, and no mobile phone reception (not much good anyway as the captain’s phone was underwater).
· There were insufficient lifejackets – 5 between 13 people.
I think the Boracay authorities were pretty surprised by this as never before had tourists requested the presence of so many ‘powerful’ people. They usually get the first flight home and try and forget it.
We had long and drawn out negotiations regarding a financial settlement and official letters of apology. In the end, it became apparent that that to take money from the boat-owner (which money we had agreed we would donate to a Christian mission that fed and clothed four of us once we were rescued), who was being hung out to dry by all other parties (including BIHA) and who had already lost his boat and his captain (and was paying for the search and rescue), would not be right, since it was obvious there were systemic problems in regulation and enforcement from the police and coast-guard down, all the way to the touts on the beach. Thankfully, the Marina took detailed notes at our meetings, and will be publishing an official report of the accident. Instead of legal action (which we threatened) or a financial settlement, we intend to use the media as a means to bring attention to problems with vessels in the Philippines and to deter future tourists (frustratingly, Boracay media have portrayed this as a “successful” rescue, even though only 4 were rescued by the Coast Guard and such rescue took over 3 hours to arrive).
In a subsequent discussion with BIHA, we were told the following:
· BIHA have an emergency fund of 1,000Php per emergency (approximately £15). BIHA had already spent 14,000Php on our medical costs alone, and would have to justify that expenditure to BIHA’s board and members.
· The captain of the boat had not worked for three months due to a pulmonary infection, and was therefore desperate to return to work in light of his medical debt and loss of earnings.
· That our vessel had passed a Marina inspection a week beforehand, despite lacking even the most basic safety precautions such as lifejackets and a life ring.
The scary thing is that if you google accidents in Boracay/Philippines many results appear. A swiss girl died in Boracay from poisoned air whilst out diving the same week we were there, which shows that lax regulations are by no means limited to the boat tours.
I think the 10 of us definitely recognise how incredibly lucky we are to be alive. If that had been a boat full of people that didn’t understand, tides, wind, waves, boats or were not strong swimmers the death toll would have been much higher. Capsizing sailing dinghies really helps! However we have learned several vital lessons from this experience.
· Do not adopt the attitude ‘It won’t happen to me’. I did and I very nearly died as a result
· Explore all the options when researching and booking these trips, do not just follow the most obvious route.
· Know the local emergency contact numbers and procedures. Take a phone in a waterproof case.
· Check the weather conditions prior to confirming the trip. Do not necessarily rely on the good faith of your crew, who may not even be aware of the conditions themselves.
· Check the safety measures available on board, and do not depart if you think they are insufficient. At the very least everyone should have a buoyancy aid that is in good condition and that fits, and the boat should some form of communication device. Flares would be advantageous but I can see that being highly unlikely in many parts of the world.
· If they are not forthcoming, interrogate the crew about emergency procedures.
· If you become uncomfortable with the conditions you find yourself in, do something about it. Do not blindly put your trust in the captain just because it’s his job, we all know people who are rubbish at their job.
· Travel Insurance is a must. If we had required helicopter rescue or transfer to Manila by helicopter we could be looking at costs of over $25,000. I have heard reports that some helicopter rescue organisations will not undertake a rescue of anyone without insurance.
Probably the most important, keep a life jacket to hand at all times. Make sure that you have one within reaching distance and certainly wear it if the waves get big. There is nothing heroic about not wearing one. We only had 5 between us. Should have known better.
Fatal boat accidents like this probably happen daily across the Philippines, Indonesia and other parts of South East Asia, and the haphazard nature of these cheap and simple excursions make them an appealing prospect to tourists and backpackers. In no way was I expecting luxury and attention to detail in any of my experiences there, in fact I was surprised I had to wear a helmet when renting a scooter, but the whole experience has made me realise just how easily you can be put in a position of real danger through no fault of your own, and that adequate preparation is sometimes all you can do to minimise those risks.
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